🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.